Thursday, January 8, 2009

Holiday Adventures Part 9 – Finally home!

On January 6 we drove the rest of the way home to Deurne. It had been a great vacation, but it was good to be home.

We were surprised to come home to five inches of snow!
Before we moved here, Josh told me (repeatedly) “it doesn’t snow in Holland, or when it does it doesn’t stay for more than a day.” I no longer believe that! It’s true that it doesn’t snow often, so roads don’t get cleared effectively and everything turns into a slushy mess. We don’t own a snow shovel, and it looks like none of our neighbors do, either.

This is our back garden, with the fishpond somewhere underneath the snow. It took some work to melt a hole in the pond to allow for gas exchange, as the ice was six inches thick.
I am used to doing all my errands by bicycle, but I’m scared to bike through the thick slush. I’ve already discovered that biking on ice doesn’t work. The snow cramps my style! But, it is beautiful.

Josh is busy at work again, and it only took me one day of running the washing machine continually to get through all 18 days of laundry. It’s good to be back to normal life.

Holiday Adventures Part 8 – Andorra and Lyon

Andorra is a tiny country tucked in the Pyrenes mountains between Spain and France. Andorra is a tax haven and its major industry is tourism, driven by its ski resorts and low-tax shopping. Andorrans speak Catalan.
Since we needed to cross the Pyrenes to get home anyway, we stopped in Andorra for a day of skiing. Josh loves to ski but I’ve never enjoyed it much. Mostly I fall down the hill out of control.
Skiing in Andorra is surprisingly affordable compared to the US, and it’s a beginner-friendly place to learn to ski. So we got up early on January 4, bought ski passes, rented skis, and took the gondola from our hotel to the top of the slopes.

We chose private lessons for me, so I spent the morning conquering the bunny hill with a kind Scottish instructor who was old enough to be my father. (I was relieved to not have an 18-year-old cool dude for a teacher.) It was fun! And now I can (kind of) ski.

Meanwhile, Josh tried the more challenging routes further up the mountain. It was a beautiful sunny day in the mountains, and it wasn’t too crowded. We thoroughly enjoyed our ski day.
The next day we headed to Lyon, France. France has expensive tollways, but at least there are frequent rest stops! Most of the highway rest stops had squat toilets, which I’d heard about but never actually seen. (There was usually one handicapped toilet which was closer to what we’re used to.)
One French rest stop even had a shower! Out in the open!
(We found that in much of Spain and France, toilet seats and toilet paper were not always available. However, restroom availability was better than in Belgium. Some highway signs for roadside rest stops in Belgium have a picture of a man urinating against a tree. Women driving through Belgium have to hold on until France.)

Anyway, in Lyon we saw yet another beautiful cathedral.
And then we went out for a proper French meal. Our guidebooks said that eating out is the main tourist attraction in Lyon. Our meal was impressive and took over three hours. We had pig trotters, salad, onion soup, puffy pike soufflé things, potato and leak casserole, local cheese, and grapefruit sorbet. It was all delicious, and quite different from what we usually eat. We were most impressed by the huge pepper mill, which was almost too big for me to use.
Just one more day before we get home…

Holiday Adventures Part 7 – Granada and Barcelona

Our next stop was Granada, Spain. The big tourist attraction in Granada is the Alhambra, a huge Moorish palace/fortress from the fourteenth century. It has fabulous Islamic architecture.
Horseshoe-shaped arches are very typical in Moorish architecture, as are geometric patterns.
The Alhambra also has some nice gardens and fountains.
The top of the castle gives a good view of the city of Granada.
After Granada, we set out for a couple days in Barcelona. Although Barcelona is in Spain, it is in the region of Catalonia, and a different language (Catalan) is spoken. Catalan sounds like a hybrid of Spanish and French.

Barcelona has a beautiful old Gothic cathedral:
And a modern cathedral called the Sagrada Familia (Sacred Family) that is not yet completed. It was started in the 1880s, and construction should be finished in about 50 more years.
Our favorite thing in Barcelona was the big market downtown. There were so many tasty treats to choose from!

Of course there was fresh produce, arranged in very attractive pyramids:
We could also buy suckling pigs:
Or freshly skinned rabbits:
The lobsters and prawns were trying to walk off the tables:
There were black truffles for sale, for the bargain price of 200 Euros per kilogram:
The sheep heads looked tasty (?) (How do you cook a sheep head???):
I have no idea what these are. It’s probably best that I don’t know.
With all those tempting choices, we stuck with dried fruit. It’s hard to go wrong with dates and figs.
January 3 was our last day in Spain. In the evening, we drove on to our next country…

Holiday Adventures Part 6 – Gibraltar and Nerja

On Dec 30 we headed to Gibraltar, a tiny British territory on the south coast of Spain. Since it is British, the people speak English and use British Pounds for money, not Euros. It’s a little pocket of Britain in Spain, complete with red phone booths and British cuisine.
Of course Gibraltar is home to the Rock of Gibraltar, which was shrouded in fog while we were there.
A cable car takes you up the Rock to the top, where there is a nice view of the surrounding docks. The Rock is also home to a colony of 200 Barbary apes, the only wild primates in Europe.
The apes are a definite crowd-pleaser as they are not afraid of people! But, you have to be careful. We saw several apes jump onto people’s backs, reach in pockets, or steal backpacks looking for snacks.
After Gibraltar, we drove to Nerja, a town on the south coast of Spain. Nerja has the “balcony of Europe,” a walkway with beautiful views of the Mediterranean Sea.
Further down the road, we found more gorgeous views as the sun set.
On the way to our next stop in Granada, we stopped at a supermarket to once again admire the Spanish ham. We just can't take enough pictures of racks of Spanish ham...

Holiday Adventures Part 5 – Morocco

On Dec 29 we took a ferry from Tarifa, Spain to Tangier, Morocco for a day trip. Morocco is on the north coast of Africa and is a world away from Spain, even though the ferry only takes about an hour. The primary language in Morocco is Arabic, and most people are Muslim, although Jews and Christians have historically lived peacefully alongside the Muslim majority.
We hired a private guide in advance, which was very helpful since we couldn’t read the Arabic street signs, and since we were obviously tourists we were hounded by locals hoping to sell us souvenirs. We started out by driving through the posh side of Tangier, with beaches and the mansions of seiks.
Even though camels aren’t used in Tangier, we took the mandatory Tourist Camel Ride.
We saw the Caves of Hercules, where there is a hole looking out to the ocean shaped kind of like Africa.The caves also have a pool where women come to bathe if they hope to have children…hmmm…
The Mediterranean beaches are beautiful.
Then we went into the heart of Tangier, which is a busy, bustling hub of activity. The buildings are close together, making most of the roads too narrow for cars. Most women wore headscarves, and many men wore long robes. It was very busy. At around noon the local mosque sounded the call for prayer, which could be heard throughout the city.
Our favorite part was the market. Butchers had all kinds of meat hanging up for us to choose from, and each butcher stand had a hopeful cat waiting by it. There were lots of produce stands:
There were stands that sold dozens of kinds of olives:
And dried fruit stands with strands of figs strung together for decoration:
Tangier was probably the most memorable part of our trip. At sunset, we headed back to the ferry dock to sail back to Tarifa. We had to rest up for the next day…

Holiday adventures part 4 – Seville and Arcos

Lisbon was an unexpected delight, but we found Seville a bit disappointing. Seville is the heart of Spain, with bullfights and flamenco music and dancing. Our tour book touted the steamy ambience of Seville, and said that if there’s anywhere to linger in Spain, it’s Seville. My favorite opera is Bizet’s “Carmen,” which takes place in Seville, so I was looking forward to seeing the city. What I forgot is that Carmen smokes in the opera, and she works in a cigarette factory. “Steamy ambience” must mean cigarette smoke! While there was a lot of smoking throughout Spain, in Seville I felt like I couldn’t ever get the smoke smell out of my nostrils.

But, we had fun anyway! It’s not the season for bullfights, but we saw the bullring:
And the lovely cathedral:
As well as another Moorish palace (Alcazar):
The gardens in Seville were delightful, full of orange trees:
And with Moorish fountains and benches:
The best part of Seville was the flamenco show we saw in the evening. Flamenco music is sung with guitar accompaniment, very full of emotion. Flamenco dancing involves lots of intricate foot-stomping.
The next day we headed out and spent some time in Arcos de la Fronterra, one of the “white hill towns” of southern Spain. All the buildings are whitewashed to be cool in the summer.
Many of the roads are very narrow, sometimes with arches between buildings to keep them from falling over in earthquakes.
Like every other town, there is a beautiful old church:
And a couple nice vantage points where you can see the surrounding countryside:
Then we drove to Tarifa, a small town on the south coast of Spain. Tarifa is a good base for a day trip into Morocco!